Ghost Mantis
The ghost mantis (Phyllocrania paradoxa) is a praying mantis from Africa known for its leaf-like appearance. They make good beginner mantis pets due to their ease of care and docile nature. Here are some guidelines to ensure the well-being of your mantis.
Housing
Enclosure: A 5-gallon or smaller enclosure is suitable for a ghost mantis. It should be more tall than wide and more than twice the height of the mantis. There should be something on the top of the inside of the terrarium for the mantis to grip for stability (fake flowers, textured fabric, etc) and enough clearance that the mantis will not hit its head on anything while molting. A clear plastic or glass enclosure is recommended to allow for easy viewing. Mantises are generally not communal; they may become aggressive or cannibalistic, especially as they age. Ghost mantises are more docile than other species and can be kept together in the right conditions. Keep them singly unless you are experienced in communal setups.
Substrate: A substrate is not necessary, but a thin layer of coconut fiber or sphagnum moss helps maintain humidity and absorb waste. There is no need to change the substrate unless it gets moldy.
Decor: Add small branches, twigs, and leaves for climbing and hiding. Silk plants or artificial decorations can also provide hiding spots and make the enclosure more visually appealing. Anything collected outside should be sterilized in the microwave for at least 1 min.
Temperature, Humidity, Lighting
Temperature: Room temperature (around 70-80°F or 21-25°C) is generally suitable. Avoid exposing the enclosure to extreme temperatures. Keep out of direct sunlight.
Humidity: Maintain a humidity level of 50-70% through daily misting.
Natural Light: Mantises do not require special lighting. They are diurnal and benefit from natural light. Avoid exposing them to direct sunlight, as it can overheat their enclosure.
Diet
Feeding: Mantises are predators and feed on live insects like flies, crickets, moths, and even each other! While prey can be acquired from nature, there is a risk of exposing your mantis to pests or parasites. Common feeders that are available for sale, at pet stores or online, are fruit flies, house/blue bottle flies, crickets, cockroaches, and mealworms. Ensure the prey is appropriately sized, about the size of the mantis’ abdomen. If the prey is something that hides or burrows, like a mealworm, offer the food with tweezers or in a separate container with nothing else.
Feeding Schedule: Offer food every 1-2 days for juveniles and every 3-4 days for adults. You can tell by the size of the abdomen if they are hungry; it should be plump and not flat. If food is refused, do not leave it in the terrarium.
Fruit fly care: If you purchased fruit flies for your mantis, you will need to maintain the population or continue to purchase more until your spider graduates to larger prey. The food for the flies is at the bottom of the container and is called Superfly by the brand Repashy, which you can purchase online, from us, or you can use instant mashed potatoes and a little bit of water, yeast, and white vinegar. Add small amounts of water as the food dries out at the bottom.
The flies will reproduce in the container and will eventually need to be moved to a new container with new food or disposed of. A 32oz deli cup with holes in the lid (or mesh) works great. Keep the flies in the refrigerator to slow them for feeding time or to slow down reproduction. While these fruit flies are genetically engineered to be flightless, they can regain the ability to fly if exposed to high temperatures for several days, so when the weather is above 85F, keep them in the refrigerator. If you need to dispose of the flies, put them in the freezer for 24 hours before throwing them away.
Misting: A water dish is not necessary. Lightly mist one corner of the enclosure every 1-3 days to maintain humidity levels. Distilled water is best but not necessary.
Handling
Limited Handling: Ghost mantises are small and delicate, it's best to limit handling to reduce stress. If you do handle them, do so gently and with clean hands. Make sure to keep your hands over a clean, uncluttered surface so the mantis doesn’t get lost. Let the mantis walk on your hands and arms but do not grab, pick up with your fingers, or try to pet the mantis on the top of its body. This could injure them and it feels like a predator attack, potentially causing them to jump or fall.
Cleaning
Spot Cleaning: Remove any uneaten prey items promptly. Keep the enclosure clean and free from debris. Inside terrarium glass must be cleaned with water only (or a tiny amount of unscented dish soap or vinegar), outside can be cleaned with a small amount of glass cleaner to remove fingerprints and smudges.
Molting
Molting Process: Ghost mantises molt several times throughout their life. Ensure there are enough vertical surfaces and spaces for them to hang upside down during molting. Before molting, a mantis may stop eating and become less active. Increase humidity slightly to aid in the molting process. Do not feed them immediately after molting. Wait until their exoskeleton hardens, which can take a day or two.
Providing a stimulating and comfortable environment for your mantis will contribute to its overall well-being and longevity. Always observe and interact with your pet responsibly and ethically. Do not release non-native mantises or feeder insects into the wild.
Housing
Enclosure: A 5-gallon or smaller enclosure is suitable for a ghost mantis. It should be more tall than wide and more than twice the height of the mantis. There should be something on the top of the inside of the terrarium for the mantis to grip for stability (fake flowers, textured fabric, etc) and enough clearance that the mantis will not hit its head on anything while molting. A clear plastic or glass enclosure is recommended to allow for easy viewing. Mantises are generally not communal; they may become aggressive or cannibalistic, especially as they age. Ghost mantises are more docile than other species and can be kept together in the right conditions. Keep them singly unless you are experienced in communal setups.
Substrate: A substrate is not necessary, but a thin layer of coconut fiber or sphagnum moss helps maintain humidity and absorb waste. There is no need to change the substrate unless it gets moldy.
Decor: Add small branches, twigs, and leaves for climbing and hiding. Silk plants or artificial decorations can also provide hiding spots and make the enclosure more visually appealing. Anything collected outside should be sterilized in the microwave for at least 1 min.
Temperature, Humidity, Lighting
Temperature: Room temperature (around 70-80°F or 21-25°C) is generally suitable. Avoid exposing the enclosure to extreme temperatures. Keep out of direct sunlight.
Humidity: Maintain a humidity level of 50-70% through daily misting.
Natural Light: Mantises do not require special lighting. They are diurnal and benefit from natural light. Avoid exposing them to direct sunlight, as it can overheat their enclosure.
Diet
Feeding: Mantises are predators and feed on live insects like flies, crickets, moths, and even each other! While prey can be acquired from nature, there is a risk of exposing your mantis to pests or parasites. Common feeders that are available for sale, at pet stores or online, are fruit flies, house/blue bottle flies, crickets, cockroaches, and mealworms. Ensure the prey is appropriately sized, about the size of the mantis’ abdomen. If the prey is something that hides or burrows, like a mealworm, offer the food with tweezers or in a separate container with nothing else.
Feeding Schedule: Offer food every 1-2 days for juveniles and every 3-4 days for adults. You can tell by the size of the abdomen if they are hungry; it should be plump and not flat. If food is refused, do not leave it in the terrarium.
Fruit fly care: If you purchased fruit flies for your mantis, you will need to maintain the population or continue to purchase more until your spider graduates to larger prey. The food for the flies is at the bottom of the container and is called Superfly by the brand Repashy, which you can purchase online, from us, or you can use instant mashed potatoes and a little bit of water, yeast, and white vinegar. Add small amounts of water as the food dries out at the bottom.
The flies will reproduce in the container and will eventually need to be moved to a new container with new food or disposed of. A 32oz deli cup with holes in the lid (or mesh) works great. Keep the flies in the refrigerator to slow them for feeding time or to slow down reproduction. While these fruit flies are genetically engineered to be flightless, they can regain the ability to fly if exposed to high temperatures for several days, so when the weather is above 85F, keep them in the refrigerator. If you need to dispose of the flies, put them in the freezer for 24 hours before throwing them away.
Misting: A water dish is not necessary. Lightly mist one corner of the enclosure every 1-3 days to maintain humidity levels. Distilled water is best but not necessary.
Handling
Limited Handling: Ghost mantises are small and delicate, it's best to limit handling to reduce stress. If you do handle them, do so gently and with clean hands. Make sure to keep your hands over a clean, uncluttered surface so the mantis doesn’t get lost. Let the mantis walk on your hands and arms but do not grab, pick up with your fingers, or try to pet the mantis on the top of its body. This could injure them and it feels like a predator attack, potentially causing them to jump or fall.
Cleaning
Spot Cleaning: Remove any uneaten prey items promptly. Keep the enclosure clean and free from debris. Inside terrarium glass must be cleaned with water only (or a tiny amount of unscented dish soap or vinegar), outside can be cleaned with a small amount of glass cleaner to remove fingerprints and smudges.
Molting
Molting Process: Ghost mantises molt several times throughout their life. Ensure there are enough vertical surfaces and spaces for them to hang upside down during molting. Before molting, a mantis may stop eating and become less active. Increase humidity slightly to aid in the molting process. Do not feed them immediately after molting. Wait until their exoskeleton hardens, which can take a day or two.
Providing a stimulating and comfortable environment for your mantis will contribute to its overall well-being and longevity. Always observe and interact with your pet responsibly and ethically. Do not release non-native mantises or feeder insects into the wild.